A Windy Walk over Place Fell

14th February 2011

There was little apprehension of the weather being bad in the Lake District as we drove up the M6, it was more a factual resignation that we would get wet sometime during the day. We hoped that the rain and snow promised would be late in the afternoon and we would just miss it.

We stopped at the best bacon butty van in Cumbria. Dave and Pete's in the first lay by on the A590  Kendal road after Junction 36. Our usual bacon and sausage changed to spam and egg that sizzled and spattered on the griddle plate as we exchanged banter with the two lads that own the van.

"It's going to be bad weather." They said pretty conclusively.

Looking at the grey mass of cloud that obliterated every inch of view of the distant fells, it was hard not to agree. But, as the last moist smidgen of spam and egg was wiped from the corner of my mouth and my mention of going west to Settle and the Yorkshire Dales was dismissed by Keith of being wimpish, we decided on Place Fell at Ullswater.

Keith orders heavenly delights

The usual optimistic it might get better wasn't quite appropriate as we ploughed through thick cloud over Kirkstone Pass and down to the Car Park at Hartsop. NY409130. Amazingly it wasn't raining, that is until we put on our boots and walking clothes and started to walk away from the car. Then it rained, really rained and it was back to the car and under the shelter of the back door we put on full waterproofs.

" At least the rucksack will be lighter." Keith always puts an optimistic slant on every setback.

Light !!!! Rain as we set off

I had bought a hand held Satmap Navigation unit the day before and this was to be its test run. I had only about an hour to read the instructions but it seemed easy enough so after setting it up I hung it around my neck. We took a normal map as well as batteries don't run out on paper but this high tech baby was capable of guiding us to Africa. After a while I checked it and sure enough on the OS map screen there was a circle showing where we started and another circle showing where we were 1.7km along the path to Place Fell. Fantastic!!

It was really pouring down and we both decided that cameras would remain in the rucksacks today. We would still do our route but it would be wet and miserable. Then without warning it stopped raining and the sky cleared.

Gateway to the fells

We stopped now and cameras out we grabbed some shots expecting things to change back to rain but they didn't. Well not for a while. I left my camera slung around my neck, not very comfortable but I thought I would keep it out as long as I could.

The path from Hartsop heads basically Northwest following the valley of Ullswater and at NY407140 it crosses Angle Tarn Beck that tumbles from Angle Tarn almost 1000ft above. Here there is waterfall that from a distance looks dramatic but doesn't quite live up to the billing close up, even in heavy flood. It could be the big tree that sits in the middle of the fall than lessens it appeal and makes it hard to get a decent photograph.

Angle Tarn Beck

The walking was really easy at first on the route then at NY405146 it starts to climb steadily up to Boredale Hause NY 407156. The weather was fantastic going forward and not so good looking back. The contrast can be seen in the following photos.

Looking back at Keith on the climb

Looking forward to Glenridding

It was hard to believe such a beautiful view had appeared so soon after tumultuous rain and it lifted our spirits. The climb became pleasant as we watched the light dancing down the valley picking out the greens and russets of the vale and the pure whites of the distant snow on the mountains. What could be nicer we thought as the increasing gradient steadily took us up and out of the valley. The wind began to get stronger which was only to be expected with altitude but then as we turned to look back at our route up the path we got a surprise.

Approaching Snowstorm

It was snow coming straight towards us at high speed. The fleeting thought we had a few minutes ago of coming spring was replaced by the definite reminder that winter was still here. Within seconds we were blasted and all views disappeared into a white curtain. Gloves and hats were on, cameras under coats and with the help of the wind on we went. The path really steepened up to Boredale Hause NY407156 so wind assistance was appreciated.

Here is there is a Cairn NY 407157 and meeting of paths which gave us the various options. One was go back, not an option. Two was follow the path to the left and drop off down to Patterdale NY 391161. This also was not an option, or we could make our way to the cairn at NY 408157 and drop off to Boredale Head NY 418169. This would be a low level route that we could have taken that would have eventually led us to Ullswater and on to the path back to Patterdale and Hartsop.

We of course decided on the remaining option to go straight on and up Place Fell in driving snow.

Snow starts to stick as Keith climbs Place Fell

The wind got stronger and stronger and the path got steeper but the snow stopped. Above us blue sky flashed through cloud as we reached the rocky knoll on which the triangulation pillar sits. NY405169.  I went first and almost turned into a human kite as the full force of the wind hit me. It was hard to stay on my feet and I held on to the pillar as I negotiated my way to a sheltered spot to wait for Keith.

Keith being blown backwards Place Fell summit

It was his turn to feel the blast and me being a true mate took a photo as he grasped the pillar in a fight to stay upright. We got into the lee side of the rocky summit and managed to get out of the full force of the wind. As we dropped a little lower the summit sheltered us and gradually the power of the wind abated.

Looking down to Glenridding from Place Fell summit

The clouds were scattering now and glimpses of far fells appeared glowing as shafts of sunlight haphazardly waltzed their way across them. Sometimes they caught the rising cloud from the valleys which refracted into mini rainbows that followed the dizzy dance to the horizon.

A splash of colour

The splendour of the ever changing views was truly breathtaking and it was a pity that I had to concentrate on my camera, not sadly to take photos but to delete a load of images I had left on my card from my last time out with it. I always check before setting off that I have a clean card but with the heavy rain today at the start I didn't.

Just before I filled my card. Photo: Keith Butterworth

It was a bit fiddly as I needed to keep todays photos so had to delete old images one at a time. The stop did give me time to check the Satmap, not that we needed to as we knew where we were in relation to the area but just for a nosy. We were staggered as we were feet away from a small tarn near Hart Crag that was showing on the Satmap screen. Unbelievable accuracy though I would always keep a paper map and compass as a back up in case it failed for some reason.

Over the Rainbow. Photo: Keith Butterworth

Camera now ready and with improving weather over us at least we carried on down the fellside. I say at least as to our right swirling snow showers spun down Boredale and in the far distance the high fells of High Street were obliterated by thick cloud.

Snow Storm in Boredale

Yet when the showers past we were left with a spectacular canvas that stretched to Penrith and beyond. Keith doubted Penrith had seen any rain all day as it looked bathed in permanent sunshine. We were bearing North East all the time now as the path descended towards Garth Heads NY 427185.

Garth Heads

We decided however just as we reached a point near Sleet Fell at NY 418184 that we would cut across the fell and took a bearing to the path junction at NY417191 from which we could then take the main path back along the edge of Ullswater to Patterdale. At the junction there is a barn and under the shelter of its porch we ate a late lunch. The only four people we had seen all day passed us as we ate. Two heading to Patterdale, two the opposite way to Beckside NY 423196. It was quiet except for the sound of Scalehow Force Waterfall just up ahead of us roaring its way to Ullswater. We passed its lower reaches as the path to Patterdale crosses its waters over a footbridge NY 415191. Here we though of taking some photographs but the falls looked better higher up the fell and we felt better not bothering to climb up to see them.

It was easy going now along the good path. Ahead we could see grey heavy cloud and anticipated that sometime before we reached the car we may get some rain. Near Silver Bay at NY397182 the path splits and we took the path to the right to keep on the lake shore but ventured out onto the headland as the view up the lake to Patterdale was not to be missed.

View up Ullswater

High on the opposite side of the lake the high fells of St Sunday Crag and the Helvellyn range flitted in and out of snow showers. We carried on to a point where we stood opposite Glenridding on the far side of the lake.

Glenridding

Glenridding is a picturesque Tourist village nestling peacefully under the Helvellyn massive. A haven for walkers , runners and mountain bikers all year round and in summer its bustling jetties are alive with yachts, boats of every type and crowded ferries. Campers, caravaners and youth hostellers, hotel and bed and breakfast guests all are catered for here on the Ullswater shore. However step back to around a hundred years ago and the scene would be completely different.

The area above Glenridding held Greenside Lead Mine the profitable mine in the whole of the Northern England and possibly one of the deepest. Imagine now the scene looking from our viewpoint. The noise from the mining would pervade every valley, dust and smoke would be rising above the village and the jetties and roads would be the arteries taking the valuable produce to the whole world. This was one busy place and fortunes were made and probably in the latter years of the 1960's lost.

We were now subject to a heavy rain shower and the feel of lets get it over began to infiltrate our thoughts. We had got to the point when even the best boots began to feel damp and the drum of water on our hoods began to irritate but a bit of tiredness does have that effect. We tramped on though passing through some nice places.

Beckstones

We also met a very nice lady taking her Trail Hounds for a walk. An old Lakeland sport though now the hounds follow a trail of aniseed laid over the fells instead of foxes.

A very nice dog walker

Soon we reached the point were hours ago we started the climb to Boredale Hause. Further down the path Angle Tarn Beck looked dramatic again. A white ribbon against the russets and browns of the wet fell side it tumbled down.

Angle Tarn Beck from Dubhow

Familiar paths in pouring rain exactly the same scenario as when we first walked them in the opposite direction, led us back to Hartsop and the car park. Now incredibly the rain stopped as we reached the car. You couldn't write a script for that happening.

The view when we got back minus rain

Technical Bits:

Elevation and Distance Graph

Time taken:   5.5 hrs including Photography

A Late Walk around Crummock Water

8th February 2011

It was throwing it down in Blackburn but the weather forecast for the lakes said the afternoon would be brighter. Faced with the prospect of a definite wet run around Darwen Moors or a possible better afternoon in Buttermere we set off up the M6.

Pete and Daves butty caravan is always our first port of call. It is in the first lay by on the A648 Kendal Road when you leave Junction 37 M6. Bacon and sausage butty and a brew what better way to kick off a day. As we waited a wagon driver came and ordered Spam and egg. Keith looked at me and in silent agreement we knew what we would eat next week.

It was still awful weather but it was only 9:30am so optimism was still high. We decided to that we would kill time and make our way via Ambleside and over Dunmail Raise on the A591 to Thirlmere then take the back road around the Lake. Turn left at NY 325129 and simply follow the narrow road for fantastic views of the lake and Helvellyn  range of mountains. Normally I may add as it certainly wasn't today. The road was badly flooded and a smaller car may have had problems.

Taking the plunge. Photo: Keith Butterworth

However the streams were pretty spectacular as they roared down the fell side.

Full force at Thirlmere

It obviously not walking weather yet so we thought we would go through Keswick and take the B5289 Borrowdale road and look at the most photographed bridge in the whole Lake District. Ashness Bridge NY 272197. This has appeared on chocolate boxes and calendars the whole world over but not on a day like this. It is however definitely beautiful in summer.

Ashness Bridge

The other thing we noticed was that at Thirlmere is was wet but warm. Here it was really cold, still wet though. Where next ? We could see over to the west the sky was getting a lot brighter so we decided to keep on the B5289 to Borrowdale and keep on it over the Honister Pass. We stopped at the Honister Slate Mine NY226135. This place once echoed to the sounds of hundreds of miners wresting slate from the slopes of and inside the mighty crag of Fleetwith Pike. It is now long closed as a working mine but has been transformed into one of the Lake Districts finest attractions. www.honister-slate-mine.co.uk well worth a visit for the whole family.

Honister Pass

It was absolutely freezing as the wind funnelled through the upper reaches of the pass making taking the above photograph a very quick affair. But, there was progress as it had stopped raining. Down the road now to Buttermere in ever improving conditions.

Breakers on Buttermere

The wind was still strong and whipped up the waters of the lake but the walk was definitely on. Lunch first as it was nearly 2:00 pm so what better place than a short drive up to Newlands Hause NY192177 and enjoy soup and sandwiches in the car battered by a howling wind. The view made up for it.

Sunlight breaks over Newlands Valley

Sunlight was breaking through and over to the west blue sky started to show itself so back down into Buttermere Village and our long awaited walk.

THE WALK.

We parked the car on the car park near the little chapel NY176171. The weather was a lot better, dry partially sunny but with a cold wind. It was too late in the day to think about walking the high fells so we decided to walk around Crummock Water. We dressed for wet weather just in case and set off down the road and took the footpath past the Bridge Hotel and through the fields to Scale Bridge which crosses Buttermere Dubs. The river was very high and just a few centimetres from spilling over the enclosing wall in to the footpath. There was plenty of evidence it had done exactly this in the past day as we waded ankle deep in big puddles. The joy of Goretex. Over the bridge we turned right and followed the path with Crummock Water to our right.

Keith strides out.

It was a pretty rocky path interspaced with deep puddles that made for slow walking but the atmosphere was really good. It was around 3:00pm and the sun was starting to sink into the west slowly painting a golden glow on the lower fell sides of Grasmoor. Looking back towards Fleetwith Pike and Honister Pass where 2 hours ago we were freezing looked rather beautiful.

Crummock Water looking back to Fleetwith Pike

We met a man and woman walking back to Buttermere who told us that the next section was very boggy and they didn't tell a lie. Anyone who has crossed very boggy ground adopts one of the two methods of walking. One is to try to carefully tread your way across and then the second you stop to look for good footing you start to sink, but its always one foot that sinks more than the other. In order to extricate this you push down on the other foot which sinks in further and, as the first foot pulls free with an audible plop you are back were you started and have to repeat the process. Eventually your boots and gaiters are peat covered blobs on the end of your legs. The other way is to try and quickly run and jump between the soft and firmer parts of the bog which gives the impression of a demented dancer to a casual observer. This approach does however work, very ungainly but better.

We crossed what was once a small beck that bore sharp evidence of a past flood. It was wide now and in the middle far from either bank was the bridge half buried in gravel. It would not have been a nice place to be when that happened.

This was once the bridge that spanned a small beck

On we went until the next once small beck. Here a more balanced approach was needed in order to cross. I think it would have been sensible to put the camera in the rucksack before I started. Keith seemed to be waiting for the plunge and the joy of having the rest of the afternoon in joyous mickey taking. Thankfully I didn't oblige.

Take it easy. Photo: Keith Butterworth

The late afternoon slowly headed towards dusk but the last redness clung to the fells as we made our way to the northern end of the lake.

Looking North Crummock Water

By now we were below the steep slopes of Melbreak rising up from the left side of our path. Its shadow and the approaching evening plummeted the temperature and the wind felt a lot colder. We followed the lake shore until we reached the low dam that marks the end of the lake. The path was flooded here so we had to walk along the dam wall onto and past the pump house and on towards the footbridge near the fish ladder. NY 152208.

Here we encountered a problem. The footbridge was isolated in the middle of the river with water either side of it. We could see the path under the water but at around 30 centimetres deep it was sure to flood into our boots. Goretex boots are brilliant at keeping water out but are also brilliant at keeping it in should you get them filled. There was only one alternative and it was off with boots and socks for a very cold wade to the bridge then the same from the bridge to the other side. It was also akin to walking on needles as the stones were pretty sharp.

A very cold paddle. Photo: Keith Butterworth

One of my spare tops became a pretty expensive towel as we sat on rocks in the now almost dark woods. I suppose I must have a soft heart as I let Keith use it, the same man who had been taking photos of me wading across hoping that I would fall in!!

The feeling of pleasure as I put my warm socks and boots on was indescribable and I sat on a rock feeling the blood return to my feet....lovely and then it hail stoned. Big ones that stung like bees then rattled like a drum solo on the hood of my coat as I frantically rushed to get my rucksack repacked.
The Lake District weather, you never can tell whats coming next.

It was just light enough for us to navigate our way through the woods on the footpath that led eventually to Lanthwaite Farm NY159208 without resorting to our head torches. Here the path joined the main road the B5289 which we trudged quite happily along in the near dark. The cloud had cleared and the sickle moon and starry sky gave enough light to guide us back to Buttermere Village. Light pollution robs us of so much in the towns and cities.

Winter Evening in Buttermere

Technical Bits.

Elevation Profile of Route

Total length of walk: 7.6 miles

Time 3 hrs including taking photographs and wading rivers.

A Cold Day on Fairfield

A Cold Day On Fairfield

31^st Jan 2011

We should have known better but of course Lake District weather is spectacularly changeable.

We drove over Kirkstone Pass through thick mist with the hopeful comment of,    “ Think it’s brightening up.” Of course every Fell Walker, Runner, Climber, and Mountain Biker thinks this while the factual weather forecaster knows the truth.

We stopped at Brothers Water car park near Cow Bridge: NY402134 and ignoring the fact that there was only our car on it, possibly due to the thick low cloud covering the surrounding mountains. We put it down to being Monday!!

Our planned route was to do a horseshoe from Cow Bridge up to Hart crag: NY368113 then on to Fairfield: NY359118 and finally St Sunday Crag: NY369134. We would then drop off St Sunday Crag and follow the main path to Patterdale: NY397160 followed by an easy walk along the main road to the car.

A few weeks ago in we had been in Little Langdale in icy conditions and had carried our ice axes and crampons with us. As we climbed the side of Wetherlam the day warmed and the ice melted so they remained unused. Today the mild conditions meant that we left the crampons and axes at home. We would come to regret our folly. Other than these however we were fully kitted up for a day on the fell whatever weather.

Not being people to choose an easy start, we crossed Cow Bridge and took the near vertical path through the facing stile and up through Low Wood. It was tough going until our bodies got used to the effort then we felt fine. The path eased slightly as we topped out of the wood and reached open fell but it still went up.

            

Looking back to Brothers Water.

Onwards and upwards on open fell.

It was very warm and damp with little wind. There was a little brightness appearing through the mist and we both thought that a few more metres of climbing would bring us above the cloud. It has to be one of the best views known to man when you are above the cloud in the mountains. The peaks sit like islands on a white sea. It didn’t happen today but there was promise of the mist breaking.

We reached the ridge crest marked by a dry stone wall that guides the walker up from the usual starting point at a stile north of Cow Bridge on the A592. NY342142. Our route cut through the wall at a stile roughly 2/3^rd mile up from this. A lot steeper way but quicker in gaining height and to us more enjoyable.

This mist still clung to the fell and the wall disappeared upwards into it dampening the atmosphere but not our optimism. It still looked like it would lift eventually.

                                                     The dry stone wall heads into the gloom.

It was still surprisingly warm although specks of snow appeared in sheltered patches. It was too warm for a hat but the damp mist wet my hair and water trickled into my face and down my neck so I plumped for a bandana made from my Buff. We kept the wall on our left until a point NY390123 above Gale Crag. Here the wall drops off towards Dovedale on the left while the main path carries straight on along the ridge of Hartsop above How. Suddenly heavy frost appeared on the grass. It wasn’t a problem as the air felt warm, too warm for extra clothes or gloves.

                                                                It starts to look colder.

Steadily though as we climbed the wind began to increase and the temperature fell. Now the grass was covered with light snow although under foot the path was good for walking. It still felt mild though probably because we were moving fast and had been in these conditions hundreds of times so our cold tolerance is pretty high.

It was as we climbed to the summit of Hart Crag that things changed and the wind grew stronger. We put gloves on as now it was cooling off and the summit wore its winter clothing.

                                                                        Hart Crag.

We took a bearing to Fairfield as the path faded in the snow and carried on enjoying the scenery though views were out of the question in the mist.

It was when we approached Link Hause NR366114 things dramatically changed as the wind change to gale force and the temperature dropped like a stone. It became hard to keep our footing as the ground turned to instant ice.

                                                                      Ice on the path.

Keith stood on the path to Fairfield.

It was at this point I could feel something rattling on my head and realised my hair had frozen into icicles.

                                                       Icicle Hair. Photo Keith Butterworth

We realised what was happening. The wind was now bringing the mist up from the valleys which the falling temperature turned to ice crystals, which in turn froze to the rocks.

We put on our extra layers and heavy mountain waterproof clothes and decided it was much too dangerous to attempt Fairfield, which lay above Scrubby Crag that was now an ice sheet. It had been a misguided assumption to leave our crampons and ice axes at home.

It took ages to get back to the Hartsop above How ridge and now even this was frozen. The damp peat on our way up was a skating rink on the way back and the wind was trying its best to blow us off our feet. Eventually we got to dry stone wall and found a place out of the wind to eat some food. We had eaten our usual bacon and sausage butty at Pete and Dave’s caravan at the first lay by off the M6 on the A591 on the way up but the energy had burned out and we were hungry.

We were fine now, the wind had dropped as we had got to the wall and the still, misty, damp atmosphere of earlier had returned. We hadn’t seen another person on the fell since we set off from the car but out of the mist a fell runner appeared. He was coming down from Hart Crag in a light cagoule and tracker bottoms. He passed us and said hello but looked a little unsure of his direction as he carried on down towards Patterdale.

Keith and I are both very experienced fell runners and have competed in very tough conditions in Lake District races and we were really surprised to see him.

We could only assume that he had either come over Fairfield or had come out of one of the valleys of Deepdale or Dovedale. Both Keith and I had run in similar conditions in similar clothing so we quite expected him to be fine as he descended into the valley.

We decided to avoid the steep descent of our first climb from Cow Bridge and took the usual walkers path to the stile on the A592. It was very easy going now as we followed the wall down. There was now no hint of wind and what looked like a still cloud cover over the mountains easily dispelled any thought to the casual observer that at 2000 feet there was an arctic storm.

It was an easy trundle along the road to the car park. Its amazing that when you come off the fell how strong the smell of exhaust fumes is to your cleared out sinuses when cars pass on the road.

                                           View from the car park at Cow Bridge after the walk.

We soon changed out of our walking gear that was unceremoniously dumped in the back of the car. The M6, and the thought of hot food at home were foremost in our minds. Oh and of course the nice cool beer waiting in our relevant fridges.

As we reached the Brothers Water campsite entrance at the foot of the climb up through Kirkstone Pass we came across the Fell Runner miserably walking along the road. I stopped and asked if he wanted a lift to wherever he was going.

“Ambleside please.”

It turned out that he had been visiting family in Ambleside and decided to run the Fairfield Horseshoe a circular run/walk that starts and finishes at Ambleside.

The route is from Ambleside to Scandale Bridge on the A591 NY 372052 then a footpath through the fields of Rydal Park to Rydal Hall NY 365063. From here the route climbs up to Heron Pike NY 356083 then up to Great Rigg NY 356105 and up and on to Fairfield NY 359118. Now begins the long descent to Ambleside via Dove Crag NY 374105, High Pike NY 374088, Low Pike NY 374078.

The fell runner only a young lad had reached Fairfield and hit the same weather as us but, instead of taking the path to Dove Crag he had gone to Hart Crag and compounded his mistake by dropping into Patterdale.  Both Keith and I have made similar mistakes in the past and it’s a disheartening feeling to say the least when you realise you are in the wrong valley. For this lad it was a warm car all the way home.